A Journey Through The Evolution of Food in Madrid
Of all the worries one can have when traveling, the essential question for anyone who is planning to leave the country for an extended period of time is: What am I going to eat?
This question has been answered by a team of student-journalists who spent just under a month in Madrid, Spain, trying to figure out how to survive in a brand-new environment. A group of enthusiastic, gung-ho foodies in our own right, we ate our way through the city and can recommend four must-eat spots to visit for any others who are a fan of food.
Beginning with the oldest continually operating restaurant in the entire world and ending with a new, funky burger joint, this journey will provide foodies with an in-depth glimpse into some diverse restaurants Madrid has to offer. In no way is this list the end-all-be-all for dining in the city, but it is a barometer for areas and neighborhoods in which food-lovers can start to find other places to try.
1. Restaurante Sobrino De Botín
Located near the always-popular Mercado San Miguel in the center of Madrid, Restaurante Sobrino de Botín has been welcoming in customers since the 18thcentury. The restaurant itself has changed ownership only once in its history, as it was started by the nephew of an immigrant French cook named Jean Botín in 1725 and is currently owned by the third-generation members of the González family.
Nearly 300 years later, the restaurant continues to wow incoming customers every day of the week, serving lunch and dinner from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., and 8 p.m. to midnight, respectively. Its antique and rustic exterior and well-dressed waitstaff may initially appear fancy and intimidating, but the wooden doors give way to a cozy and welcoming atmosphere that invites conversation.
Sobrino de Botín’s most famous offering is the roast suckling pig, which is cooked in the same wood oven that was used at the start of the restaurant’s existence. The dish comes out piping hot, and its perfectly crispy skin and fatty, juicy meat leaves those who taste it coming back for more.
The pig, along with the specialty roast lamb, are not the only options available. With a host of dishes on the menu, including chicken fricassee in an almond sauce, many diners will be able to find something they can enjoy, although to the dismay of vegetarians and vegans.
Calle de Cuchilleros, 17, 28005, Madrid
(+34) 913 66 42 17
botin.es
2. Chocolatería San Ginés
Another historical landmark near the heart of Madrid, Chocolatería San Ginés is a crowd favorite among tourists and locals. Open since 1894, the sweet shop’s iconic green-and-gold adorned establishment is open 24 hours a day, making it a perfect option for the start of the day as well as late-night cravings.
While having a well-balanced menu, San Ginés’ most popular option includes the chocolate referred to in its namesake. At a low cost for what is served, usually six churros and a cup full of hot, melted chocolate, the snack is well worth the price and the hype. The freshly baked pastries serve as the perfect vessel for which to dip into the chocolate, as the intensely rich but not overpowering sweetness make for a winning combination. It’ll likely be impossible to not return at least once during your stay in Madrid.
Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5, 28013
(+34) 913 65 65 46
chocolateriasangines.com
3. La Casa Del Abuelo
Continuing with the trend of traditional mainstays in Madrid, La Casa Del Abuelo is a small but delicious part of the thousands-year-old practice of tapas in Spanish food culture. Situated only a few minutes from the bustling Puerta del Sol area, the restaurant is lacking in space but is huge in character.
From its long list of tapas options comes one of the crowd favorites, namely their garlic shrimp. Made right in the view of the patrons, the shrimp do not require extra gimmicks and are ready within minutes of ordering. They are served in a skillet still bubbling from the oil in which they are cooked, and they may burn a tongue or two at first. But their flavor encourages customers to try again.
An essential to have as well as the tapas is the wine, that comes in a small glass, but packs a definitive punch. The closed-in environment is desirable for sharing food and enjoying company.
Calle de la Victoria, 12, 28012
(+34) 910 00 01 33
lacasadelabuelo.es
4. Juanchi’s Burgers
This journey through restaurants around Madrid ends with a newer addition to the landscape, in the form of Juanchi’s Burgers in the eastern side of the trendy Salamanca neighborhood. The most Instagram-friendly spot on the tour, the Conde Peñalver location is one of three in the city along with restaurants in Brooklyn, NY., and Miami, FL.
While relatively unassuming from the outside, the interior is simultaneously intimidating and warm, with black and white décor present throughout. The atmosphere created is lively and upbeat, inviting all inside to retreat from the outside and simply enjoy their company’s presence. A wall full of scrawled writing in the rear echoes the same message, saying that humans “want to live by each other’s happiness” above all.
If that is not enough to entice, the food itself is exceptional. The restaurant has a wide variety of offerings available, from breakfast and salads to their famous burgers and desserts. Ordering a burger comes with a three-step process, including beef, chicken, and vegan fillings, multiple sides, and bun options such as black brioche, gluten-free and a lettuce wrap. In addition, there are more than a few possible topping options to go on the sandwich that are adventurous and inexpensive. For the full American experience abroad, one of Juanchi’s colossal shakes is the perfect way to end the night.
Calle del Conde de Peñalver, 60, 28006
(+34) 910 44 22 40
juanchisburgers.com
It is important to be aware of the different ways European countries operate around food to avoid headaches and stress. During the week, it may be difficult to find an open restaurant in the early afternoon as the Spanish tradition of siestasafter lunch is not a myth. A smart precaution to take is to Google restaurants in the area and look up their hours so to evade any confusion.
Even after getting into the restaurant, there may be a few culture shocks that occur. Be prepared to pay for ordering things like water and bread that usually come free of charge in the United States, as they come with a small price in Spain. Throughout the meal, it’s best to call over the waiter or waitress by making contact or a small wave, as tradition includes a hands-off approach that means letting people at the tables conversate without being bothered. If the waiter does not know to come over, they will not. And before paying, it is easiest to decide beforehand whether to pool cash for each dish ordered or have one person pay with their card, as Spanish restaurants are not accustomed to splitting the check.
Despite the intimidation factor that comes with eating and traveling within a foreign nation, the important thing to remember is that with time, the process will become easier. The flow of finding a place, eating and paying becomes second nature, and once those stresses are forgotten the enjoyment of being around food will noticeably heighten. Remember that these experiences do not last forever, so it’s best to let loose and try new things. The moment of a lifetime may just be waiting.